“Chow mein” and “chop suey\"—both American appropriations of Cantonese words—have been part of the American English vocabulary since the late 19th century. With the end of mining and railway building as viable industries, Chinese food service establishments, along with hand laundries, became the major economic opportunity available to Chinese immigrants, as well as a crucial site of cultural exchange. Americanized Chinese food became an important part of the food landscape.
Chan’s Fine Oriental Dining, Jazz & Blues first opened in Woonsocket in 1905 as the New Shanghai Restaurant. A Chinese-American restaurant, Chan’s continues to offer variations on chop suey, chow mein, and fried rice.
In 1965, Ben F. Chan purchased the space, refurbished the dining area, and changed the name to Chan’s Fine Oriental Dining. In 1986, the restaurant doubled in size and added jazz, blues, folk, cabaret, and comedy performances. The space hosts acclaimed musicians while also providing familiar food options for locals.
A notable regional specialty is the chow mein sandwich, an amalgam of French Canadian, Italian, and Chinese cultures. Popularized in the predominantly Catholic towns of Fall River, New Bedford, and Woonsocket, Chinese restaurants and food trucks offered meatless sandwiches on Fridays in observance of religious strictures. The chow mein sandwich is served on a hamburger bun with noodles and a brown gravy made with onions, celery, and bean sprouts. An affordable and filling lunch option for textile mill workers, the chow mein sandwich also appeared in school cafeterias and on lunch counter menus. The sandwich signals the adaptation of traditional Cantonese cuisine to the tastes of Anglo-Americans.
According to the magazine Chinese Restaurant News, there are nearly 41,000 Chinese restaurants in the United States, three times the number of McDonalds franchise units (and at $17 billion in annual sales, at a par with the gargantuan hamburger chain).
","In 1938, Chinese immigrant Frederick Wong opened the Oriental Chow Mein Company in Fall River, Massachusetts, producing chow mein mix and crunchy noodles. The popular chef Emeril Lagasse, who grew up in Fall River, has professed his love for chow mein sandwich, a staple of local high school cafeterias. The Oriental Chow Mein Company still produces the ingredients for an at-home chow mein sandwich under the brand name Hoo Mee. Their products—in signature bright yellow boxes—can be ordered online or purchased in local markets.
","Chow Mein Sandwich
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound dried Chinese egg noodles
Vegetable oil, as needed for deep-frying
1 quart chicken stock
¼ cup cornstarch
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 celery stalks, cut into ¼-inch slices
1 large sweet onion, cut in half and sliced into strips
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 cup bean sprouts
¼ cup molasses
4 hamburger buns
DIRECTIONS:
Cook the noodles in a large pot of boiling water until al dente. Drain and rinse. Use paper towels to pat the noodles dry. Divide them into 4 equal portions.
Heat at least 3 inches of oil in 350°F in deep-fryer or a large frying pan. Using a slotted spoon, lower a batch of noodles into the oil and fry, turning once, until crisp and brown, about 5 minutes. Drain well on paper towels. Repeat with the remaining 3 batches.
In a small bowl, combine 1 cup of chicken stock with the cornstarch to make a paste.
Heat the 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a deep cast-iron skillet or wok. Add the sliced celery, onions, and garlic. Cook until soft, about 2 minutes. Add the bean sprouts and cook for another minute, until they begin to soften. Stir in the remaining 3 cups of chicken stock. Add the cornstarch paste, stirring constantly as the mixture thickens. Add the molasses and mix well; remove the skillet or wok from the heat.
Separate the hamburger buns and place the tops and bottoms on 4 deep plates. Top one side of the bun with one of the fried noodle batches. Top the other side of the bun with one-fourth of the bean sprout mixture. Repeat with the other buns. Combine the top and bottom of each bun to form a sandwich. Serve immediately.